Nib, Ink, Paper
Nib, ink and paper, the trinity of our little fountain pen hobby
Besides checking the condition of our nib and perhaps perform some adjustment upon receiving our pen, finding out what ink and paper works with our new pen is also a part of the new pen journey.
Nib adjustment/tuning is a rather complex topic all together. I’ll leave some link at the bottom if you are interested in nib tuning, let’s focus on the interaction between nib, ink, and paper in this post.
Assuming your nib arrived in adequate condition, and the initial rough check on nib, feed alignment, slit gap and writing test is alright, you will be facing the task of finding the right combo for your new pen.
Link below is a rough explanation of the type of nibs, ink and paper, you can choose to skip it if you already know these general definitions.
https://www.ataraxia.fyi/home/nib-ink-paper-basics
Do note that some people’s definition may vary a bit, but the general idea is there.
With the basics out of the way, let’s get the main meat started.
How does a pen write/behave is a combination of the three elements? The image below shows the point of contact between pen’s tip and paper, demonstrating how different combo may behave when they are used together.
(Flexible nibs will behave similar to the soft nib, but at even a wide spread and angle. )
So what’s happen here?
Sample 1 is the standard, most typical/common/idea situation a nib’s tip is suppose to be in.
Most nibs has a slightly rounded outer edge to ensure a smooth transition between uneven surface of the paper.
the inner edge of the two tips are very slightly rounded to ensure the inner tips doesn’t catch on paper, the very small round off also ensures capillary action pulls ink almost all the way to the bottom of the tip.
The bottom, flat “foot” of the two tips provides an even surface, ready to glide over most irregularities of the paper surface.
in sample 1, the ink is ready to make contact with paper at the smallest, uneven surface, or when the slightest is applied and pushed the tip tips slightly into the paper.
Sample 2, most condition remains the same, but the user now has a heavy hand with a rigid nib.
The writing experience will most likely be fine. you can see the channel of ink has recessed a bit due to the two tips now opened up due to pressure, and surface tension prevents ink from reaching all the way down.
How ever,ink is still reachable by paper’s own high and low points, plus the paper will be pushed/digged in more, so the ink delivery mostly remains the same.
One problem though, now you have the two tips slanted slightly outward. a less idea angle to glide across paper. the slightly more opened gap also means that some ridges of the paper can get between the two tips and does not simply glide over like before, creating more feed back/friction.
Sample 3 Similar to sample 1, but heavy hand with soft nib. since the gap is now wider compare to even sample 2, you can expect more micro paper ridges can get between the two tips as it moves across the paper. The more slanted tips also means that the micro paper ridges will be meeting the tip at even an sharper angel, creating even more friction.
Sample 4-6 Ever wonder why sometimes even when the nib alignment checks out, the nib has been smoothed using micro mesh per some online instruction, yet your pen still shows some scratchiness under fast writing/more pressure? This is the reason why.
Uneven inner tip polish is mostly hidden under light pressure, but the resistance/feedback/scratchiness they provide due to sharp angle hitting the incoming paper surface will be amplified and shows up with a vengeance under even slightly more pressure.
Simply using a micro-mesh and do circle 8s may not be enough, in fact, it may worsen it due to taking out the bottom footing and making the inner edge even sharper. you will have to get a good magnifier, find out which section of the tip is causing problem, and round it off.
Sample 7 is self explanatory. A pen with more feed back are typically one with less rounded edge. both inside and outside. This is either done by factory, or mostly by sharpening the outer edge. NOT BY SANDING THE WHOLE FOOT WITH MICROMESH. you will create problem described in Sample 4-6, sure, you will get more feed back… but it’s in general not an even or pleasant ones, due to the inner tips are generally much much sharper. They also don’t lift away from the paper and reduces resistance under pressure like the outer edge would instead.
Sample 8 This is what is typically refereed as baby’s bottom, when the pen manufacturer is over zealous and polished the tip just a bit too much. sure now it will have a round contact surface meeting paper’s micro ridges even with soft tips are slanted open under pressure. the issue is that the inner tip has been rounded off so much, the capillary action on longer works down down there, and left a gap between the ink and paper… hence dry start.
Some deal with it by pressing down harder, forcing the paper and ink to meet, some had to tap the pen a few times (trying to get ink flow down) but it’s still a nuisance.
Sample 9 If you dont’ want to send the pen back, visit a pen smith, or just want that ultra smoothness under high pressure at all times, then one way to deal with the problem is to use a really wet ink. Wet ink fends to flow better (probably due to lower surface tension… probably) into larger gaps. Making the ink reachable by paper.
Sample 10 Anther way to solve the problem with over polished inner tips is to use rougher paper… this gives the paper more tooth to reach between the tips and make the initial contact with inks. and form a capillary action channel… how ever, this kinda of defeats the point of getting a super smoothed out nib.
Sample 11 Ever wonder why sometimes your soft nib just isn’t reliable with your new ultra smooth paper? and even skips some letter even when you started writing? this is why. When a nib is too soft, sometimes even the weight of the pen it self will open up the tines, separating the two tips, draws ink upward, and with the ultra smooth paper? well… nothing is reaching that ink.
Sample 12 This is a rare, but possible problem when you combined very dry ink and smooth paper. The ink does not flow toward the bottom, and yet ,paper does not have enough tooth to grab the ink. Most of the time a few tap, hard press, etc. will solve the problem, but avoidable if you just get the right paper/ink combo.
Also, on the side note, hand oil can be a major factor on causing your fountain pen to skip on the page too.
oil coated paper basically has an hydrophobic coating that creates a barrier between the ink and paper… effectively causing skips and hard start. None coated paper tends to be able to absorb the oil a bit, lessens its impact with ink, rough paper also tend to hard a harsher contact point with the nib and have an easier time to scratch off that oil barrier between the paper and hand oil.
Of course, there are some additional nuisance between paper and ink.
Issues like bleed through, feathering, sheen, smearing, etc.
but that’s perhaps another topic on another time.
If you are interested about nib tuning, below are some pretty good reference.
http://richardspens.com/pdf/workshop_notes.pdf
http://www.penmuseum.co.uk/master%202.htm
http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/187706-five-bad-things-that-happen-with-new-pens/
https://www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/smoothing-scratchy-nibs
